How to Layer Fine Hair

Ever wondered why your guest's hair ends up skinny on the ends? Or do you have guests with fine hair that ask for no layers and hate the scissors?  

Layering fine hair can be tricky, and we need our guests to trust our knowledge. So what better way by having a mini guide, a video and pictures to look back on? Maybe you can even show them this blog to install a little faith in layering. So, here's a breakdown to give you a few tips and tricks to bring confidence back to your fine-haired-guests.

• Section the hair in a curved pattern 

The curved hair cut sectioning is designed to follow head shape, giving a fuller end result. 

We have one large panel in the back – this makes work easier later. The sides sectioned away with a curved top section following the parietal ridges and dipping below the crown. We will be practicing condensed cutting since this is a medium to fine hair texture. I don’t recommend this for any look that is thicker. Because the hair is fine you have more control. 

• Cut the back in one large section 

One length and bulky. This is great for creating a strong base for a fuller look on fine hair types. 

Pull the section at zero elevation and cut a blunt thick thine in the ends at your desired length. Because were taking it in one section make sure you really work at the hair. Comb down thoroughly and you want every hair facing the exact flow and tension before you cut. Create a thick fat line and cut parallel to the shoulders. 

• Release the hair on the sides to cut 

The sides are an extension of the base line you have cut in the back. Follow the method of cutting around to the sides. 

The sides on fine hair types are the weaker area of a haircut. This is because there less hair in this area, also generally hair gets a little finer around the face, so its prone to more damage being weaker. It can have a shorter life span and not grow as long as the back. Some people suffer thinning here too so we need to protect this area to keep it fuller. This haircut protects those sides from over-layering, keeping more density in the ends. 

• Blow-dry the base before layering the top of the fine hair 

We use a wrap technique with our brush to give a smoother finish and eliminate frizz.  

We're not focusing too heavily on flattening those roots but just smoothing. We still want the hair to move so its brushed back and forth in a downward motion. We leaf the hair with a little lift. Were mainly focusing on the base to midshaft. This is because getting roots sat right will have the ends follow. 

• Straighten the base of the haircut 

We start around the face creating diagonal back sections. Eventually working into a vertical at the back. When ironing we give it a little bevel on those ends. This is to get it to sit smooth and rounded giving a nice visual for the end result. This also saves styling time later. 

• Then we cut the top layers 

This area is skinnier than usual layering techniques. This is to protect the hair from over-layering. 

The top section is literally parietal ridge upward. Over layering bases of finer hair is a common problem guests have experienced and many don’t want to end up with skinny ends. Fuller ends provide balance and stronger shapely looks. 

• Start layering the crown area 

Take a straight line horizontally across the high point of the head, separate our top section in two giving a crow section at the back. 

Our guide for the length is coming from the low crown, high occipital bone area. Remember we are following the shape of the head. Hair is elevated out until hair from the occipital falls away, helping Matt find the cutting guide. This is cut slightly to the previous and is cut with a soft point cutting in the ends for extra texture. 

• Work on the top 

Here we work with over direction, making it a nice touch for finer-hair-types. 

The over-direction is pulled over the top of the forehead. It cuts the shortest point over the forehead and the longest point comes toward the back off the face. It adds light layers at the front and keeps heavy layers at the base. The sections taken over to the middle to retain length and weight around the sides. 

• Check out your body positioning 

Its's easy to fall off track with body positioning, be mindful. 

Matt cuts the top section; his body position doesn't change. Just the direction of the way the layers are pulled or pushed to the middle guide. Then dries and styles the rest with only a little work left to do!  

• Finish the cut 

Grab a little spray and give it the edge you desire! Matt goes for a more lived-in-look. As you can see the final result has a nice fullness and stacked up layers!