How to Set Hair for a Looser and Smoother Curl on Extra Curly Hair

In this video Danielle Downes shows you how to get smoother curls from a 4a to 3c texture to create a smooth controlled looser effect 2c curl. 

Check out the video link below from our YouTube channel Free Salon Education. We regularly update with Hairdressing content to educate you on new techniques products and all things hair for free! This week were blogging about setting curls for your curly guests. Maybe you just want to recap or learn something new. So, check it out! 

Use different sized rods for natural looking Curls 

Danielle demonstrates using peach, orange and fuchsia rods for a more tapered effect in this curl set. 

When you look at natural curls you usually see many twists sizes and curl patterns. We want to mimic a beautiful natural shape, so go in with different rods and a little structure. Get creative but also have a little organization to your look. Choose rods with intention so think of using a few sizes that will work together. This look can be created looser or tighter depending on your intended look. 

Cleanse hair with good quality hair products for the curls 

You need to cleanse to start the set, so use products that you know will work for your needs. If it's a dry texture use a good moisture product. If it's fine use a bodifying cleanser and conditioner. 

Danielle uses the Tea Tree Lavender Mint shampoo and conditioner. These products improve strength, shine and manageability! Danielle shows us how easy the hair is to handle with a detangling brush. It's important to set yourself up to win with your backwash experience. A good basic prep is one of the most important parts of a hair styling regime. 

Use a tail comb and start sectioning hair 

The right tools help create the basis of a good curl set too. We're working in a brick effect and the sectioning doesn’t need to be super precise being a curly hair set look. 

Start in the nape. We're winding the curl rods in diagonally, alternating the size of the curl rods for a natural effect. Using product before winding, we add the lightest product first because it helps us work the hair. Danielle uses Paul Mitchell Lavender Mint Curl Refresh and saturates the hair. You know the hair is correctly saturated if the curls bind into a wave when worked through. After Danielle layers over with a taming cream for slip and soft control. 

Roll the curling rods without end papers! 

You don’t always need the end papers to set hair, sometimes you just need a good product saturation. Danielle shows us why - 

You have more control, your drying time is quicker and curly hair usually when stretched out grows into a point. This makes it easier to wind the hair paper free. When Danielle winds her rods, she shows that the product helps the curly hair adhere to the rod, meaning less faffing and more winding! Great for us busy hairstylists. 

Wind your curl rods from the closed end. 

Usually were taught to wind from the opposite end. But Danielle's technique makes sense. Here's why... 

With the product helping your hair to stick to the rod, Danielle starts from the closed end of the curl rod. Once she has wound her curl, she shows how easy it is to secure the rod in the hair without picking up loose hairs making your life easier and a more efficient curly wind. 

Wind the hair with two curling techniques, 

Now here's the fun part! We are winding with intention our two techniques help define the look an ill explain why Danielle does this. 

The ends are wound flat and ribbon like, this helps lock the curl onto the rod. Once you have secured those ends, she uses a twisty technique to loop the hair around the rod. This gives a ropey effect to the twist, enhancing those dips and bumps in our curl but also drying in this form will keep the effect once curls are dried. Remember – natural curls will have different texture in the hair, so this technique makes complete sense! 

TIP- Smaller sections will dry quicker. Also, seeing product swell out of the hair implies a good tension on the hair! This is good we want tension for a curly hair set. For added shine once all wound a shine product can help illuminate those bends in the hair so if you drying under heat this can particularly help add that extra sparkle to your look. 

Think about the direction you wind the curls around the face. 

So, you are at your mid-band section and want to play with the hair around the face? Wind with a bit of root slack. Danielle demonstrates why. 

Direction matters a little more around the face. Danielle wants to work a little more off the face. She focuses on her tension and direction being wound a little lower. This is to create a little drag on her root area. The dip in root lift in this area is intentional as Danielle likes the option to wear the curls in different styles. 

TIP – Work methodically using the same technique until you have finished the whole set. 

Use an oil to finish the curls. 

When you remove the rods, the curls will need a little help moving into place.  

Using an oil Danielle twists and defines the curl in the direction she wound them. She also likes to use a comb with long teeth to just break into the root area, this helps stretch them out and fill gaps in maybe finer haired guests. 

Finish the look with a finishing spray and a little fluff. 

Now not every curly person likes this so ask how worn in they like their curls. They may like more definition so it could be better to leave them at this stage. 

Danielle uses Awapuhi Wild Ginger shine spray and pulls out the hair and fluffs. Use your creative eye to mold and expand a shape you want. Danielle shows us how to create a fro-hawk that she personally likes to create a few days into the curly set. This shows the versatility of leaving root slack around the face.  

Here's the final look! Hope you like it and we would love to see your own creations! Get interactive on our app FSEnow or follow @thehandsdownes on Instagram! Check out our YouTube channel Freesaloneducation and for tools go to shopFSE.com.... Enjoy styling!