Easy Money Piece Color Technique
May 04, 2021
Free salon education – money piece balayage
Check out this money piece class from our YouTube channel with Brian Haire.
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Money piece balayage.
The look is very wearable. Completely on trend and we love it at FSE!
Brian gets started by gathering everything he needs. In this video you will see tools and tips like our color table from Minerva or the hi-lighting combs storming the hairdressing market to even out your baby lights.
Tools you need to balayage your money piece
- Balayage lightener
- Chosen baby light comb
- Color bowls
- Color brushes
Focus on the money piece
This look gives a pop of bright in the bang area.
The money piece is achieved with a combination of baby lights and balayage. The sides and back are achieved with a free hand balayage technique, it's fast but effective. Giving a bold pop and a natural look.
Start by sectioning
Brian takes a strong triangular bang section in the front.
The comb Brian is using today is his amicomb. This comb separates the hair out and gives an even baby light effect. Consistency helps keep us even and blendy. Not only that but it also saves you time working these super fine lights through the hair.
Start baby lighting
Baby lights start on the hairline of our money piece section.
Brian wants to give the bang sectioning extra energy. That's why he starts here, using foils to incubate the baby lights will give extra lift. The ends he leaves out will also be lifted. So, all the ends around the fringe/bangs are lifted but in a diffused melty technique.
TIP- Once Brian reaches the "point" of his triangular section he takes it in one foil. This helps frame the moneypiece. This will also help transition the back balayage into the moneypiece.
Then we balayage
The balayage lighter we use is Paul Mitchell's skylight clay lightener.
This product gives us an environment perfect for lifting without transferring to unwanted parts of the hair. Brian uses 40v developer for the added lift. This is a fun and simple quick balayage technique.
Balayage the money piece
We start by painting the ends in between the foils.
This ensures optimum lights around the face but also keeps the look natural. The hair Around the sides is tackled first and the technique Brian uses is a clockwork balayage. This is still used in a vertical manner but with the natural fall of the hair.
Work the balayage logically
Use your consultation to really figure out the best look on your guest.
This look haslot of hair that isn't colored (negative space) What this does is creates definition between the natural and the lights. If your guest likes to wear their hair up, pop more balayage on the hairline. If its predominantly down – lighten up the top layer more. The guest will want to see your creation, so make sure your negative space is in the right areas.
Clockwork the balayage
So, we mentioned this earlier and you want to know more?
Well, a clockwork style balayage is a quick effective technique. We are taking vertical segments around the head. Following the way our hair falls. The deep verticals allow us to diffuse hi-lights and glow up the ends.
Start on the side
Hitting on what we said earlier, bring the balayage lighter around the face.
You want to merge the money piece into the back by bringing lightness on the edges. (Unless you want a statement look) We free hand paint our lightener here higher to melt our blonding techniques together. Visually happy? Now mimic.
Repeat the technique for balance
Work on the opposite side, copying the sectioning and painting technique.
Brian uses a sweeping method to let the hair take the product from his brush. He also applies the product thick and heavy to control the lift and give more lightness. Heavy saturation over all the ends really brings a beautiful pop of blonde.
TIP- On fine hair types be aware of the thickness of your sections! You don't want the hair to separate and transfer product to the areas we don't need lift. Taking thicker sections will help with control.
Now balayage the back
We split this section because our balay on the bottom is different to the top.
The bottom half needs more focus of lightener through the ends. While the top is more hi-lighty. Use your creative eye and saturate the ends to where you want your lightener to pop, still working in a clockwork manner below the occipital.
Balayage the final top section
The apex-occipital section needs to lighten up!
So, here we want to bring the lightener a little higher giving a beautiful blend and working like we did around the sides. Lightening up top as well as heavy lifted ends. The negative space in the underneath gives a nice dimension so it brings the balayage to life.
Brian shows you how to hold equipment whilst working.
Take your section leaving your ring finger and Pinky free. This frees them up to act like clips so you can pinch the hair for control whilst using your paddle and brush.
Finally, we show you our finished look
We decide to go in with a bold pink finish on our doll.
We love seeing fantasy colors and bold looks! Share your pictures we would love to see your work showcased on our FSEnow app. Get involved, chatter, learn and grow. And remember to have fun creating Brians balayage.