Mastering the Modern Mullet: A Step-by-Step Guide with Jake the Barber

The mullet is back, but it’s not the "business in the front" look you remember from the '80s. Today’s Modern Mullet is all about texture, flow, and a precision-faded temple.

In this tutorial, I’m working with my client, Austin, to create a sharp, intentional look that maintains length for a forward-fringe style while keeping the sides tight and the back flowing. Here is my professional breakdown of the process.

Phase 1: Preparation and Debulking

The secret to a great fade is visibility. You need to clear the "canvas" before you start your detail work.

The Guard: I start with a #4 guard.
The Goal: Debulk the side area.
The Strategy: Be extremely careful to avoid the top and front. Austin wants to wear his fringe down on his forehead, so we need to preserve every bit of that length.
The Guideline: Use the #4 to find your initial guideline around the ear without being too aggressive. This ensures you don't chop off too much hair before you’ve established your plan.

Phase 2: Setting the Fade Angle

Once the bulk is gone, it’s time to shape the fade.

Angle the Fade: I switch to a #2 guard. I follow the natural hairline in front of the ear and angle the clipper upward.
Corner Work: Use the edge of the clipper to follow the hairline ever so slightly. This creates a clean path and a guideline to follow as you transition behind the ear.
The Bald Line: Switch to no guard. Starting slightly higher than the bottom of the ear, create your shortest line. Keep it low and meet the point where the back hairline starts.

Phase 3: Cleaning the Canvas

Before the fine-tuning, you have to clean up the neck and "stubble" areas.

Detailing: Use your detailers to clear the neck hair. We want to keep the "flow" of the mullet in the back, but everything below that flow line on the neck needs to go.
The Shaver: Use a foil shaver to get rid of the stubble where you used the detailer.
Pro Tip: When working above the ear with a shaver, use only the corner of the tool. This prevents you from digging in and creating a "hard line" that is impossible to blend out later.

Phase 4: Blending and Fading

Now we connect the short bottom to the longer top.

The "Zone" Work: Open your clipper all the way and work just below that initial #2 line. Use the corners to match the lengths, closing the lever as you fade downward.
The Beard Transition: For the beard line, I use the reverse technique. I start with the clipper closed and gradually open it as I move up. This eliminates the hard line between the beard and the fade.
The #1 Guard: Use the #1 guard to bridge the gap between your skin-prep and the #2.

Jake’s Advice: If you see shadows, don't panic. Play with your lever—close it, open it, and use your corners to "pick" at the dark spots until the shadow disappears.

Phase 5: The "Hairspray" Shape-Up Trick

This is a game-changer for precision. Before I pick up my trimmers for the final shape-up, I use hairspray.

The Application: Shield your client’s eyes and spray the area you’re about to shape (temples and cheek line).
The Cold Shot: Use a blow dryer on a cold setting to dry the spray instantly.
The Benefit: The hairspray holds every tiny hair in place. It also creates a thin, white-ish film that acts as a barrier and "highlights" your line.
The Dry Razor: Because the hairspray creates a barrier, you can do a dry razor shape-up without the mess of shave gel. It gives you maximum visibility and a crisp, sharp finish.

Phase 6: Finishing Touches

I finished the blend using shears instead of clipper-over-comb. While both work, shears allow for more precision when you're working in those tight zones where you want to keep the length but remove the weight.

Final Result

The modern mullet is all about the contrast between the clean, faded temple and the textured, flowing back. By preserving the fringe and using the hairspray trick for the lineup, Austin walks away with a look that is both edgy and professional.