Stop Fighting Cowlicks: The Professional’s Guide to a Flawless Skin Fa

If you’re a barber, you know the struggle: a client sits in your chair with hair growing in five different directions. Cowlicks (or "callics") can make a standard haircut feel like a battle.

In my latest tutorial, I’m working with my boy Brandon to show you exactly how to find a style that complements—rather than fights—natural hair patterns. Here is the breakdown of how to achieve a seamless skin fade while managing difficult growth patterns.

1. Map the Natural Growth

Before you even pick up your clippers, you need to see what you’re working with. I start by wetting the hair down and combing it in the direction it naturally wants to lay.

When you have multiple intersecting cowlicks, the goal is to find the path of least resistance. Don’t try to force the hair to go somewhere it doesn’t want to be; instead, cut the hair so it falls naturally into place for the final result.

2. Set Your Initial Guidelines

I start the foundation of the cut with a #2 guard.

The Technique: I bring the #2 all the way around, stopping at the arch.
The Pro Tip: Use a "flaring" motion. By pulling the clipper outward as you reach the top of your section, you avoid creating a harsh weight line. This makes the transition to the top length much easier to blend later.

3. The Path to Skin

Once the foundation is set, it’s time to go short.

No Guard: I use my clipper all the way closed to set the bottom line, following the same pattern as the #2.
The Detailer: Next, I use a trimmer to remove the stubble. Be careful here—don't push into the line you just created, or it will be nearly impossible to blend out.
Safety First: Always watch for bumps or moles. Using a foil shaver or detailer over an imperfection can cause bleeding, which is the last thing you want for your client.

4. Blending the Fade

To get that blurry transition, I use the "Open-to-Closed" method:

Clipper Fully Open: Go up about halfway into your #2 section.
The Flick Out: Just like with the #2, flick the clipper out at the top of the stroke.
Adjust the Lever: Gradually close the lever little by little.
Use the Corners: Don’t use the whole blade for detailing. Use the corner of the blade to pick off dark spots and small lines.

5. Shear Work and Finishing Touches

Once the fade is locked in, it’s time to marry the top to the sides.

Clipper Over Comb: Use this technique to remove bulk before moving to your shears.
Light Trim: Since we want to maintain length to weigh down those cowlicks, we only do a very light trim on top.
Thinning Shears (Blend 20s): I use these to eliminate any remaining "heavy" spots. Because Brandon's hair is wet, lines look darker; the thinning shears ensure that once the hair is dry, the transition looks soft and airbrushed.
Texture: A quick pass with a triangle razor adds texture without removing too much bulk.

The Result

By working with the hair's natural direction and using a systematic fading process, we turned a "crazy amount of cowlicks" into a sharp, intentional style.

Visit our online store at freesaloneducation.com to shop the FSE Elite and Pro Series Scissors, texturizing shears, and other essential tools used in this tutorial.