Soft Invisible Layered Haircut AKA Ghost Layers
Jan 30, 2023
In this guide we will teach you how to cut soft invisible layers. Great for fine hair types that you don’t want to cut heavy layers in. Giving off the illusion of seamless invisible layers.
Matts video below gives you a great visual representation of how to cut invisible layers in hair. So, check it out. Also, this written blog is a great step-by-step hair cutting guide to refer to while practicing cutting invisible layers. Matt regularly updates his social channels with free salon education, so you can practice cutting new hair techniques in your salon completely free. Check out his YouTube channel and subscribe, follow his Tik-Tok or Instagram, or if you want to be first in line, sign up to Matts Patreon. for hair education ahead of the game.
Things to think about when cutting invisible layers.
When cutting invisible layers, it's good to reference the crown area. You don’t really want to over-layer the hair here so be mindful of your client's density, fine hair types need to be approached with caution, because too many layers in the hair can make the hair look thin. If fine hair has no layers, it can also look flat and lank. So invisible layers are a great option for fine hair types because the hair cutting is so delicate.
Section the hair to cut invisible layers.
Separate the crown from the rest like matt does in the video. Keeping that part of the hair protected for later. Then divide the hair down the middle back and start by standing on the right-hand side. The next sections of hair you take will be the sections you cut, so take a look at the images further below to see how matt sections for cutting the invisible layers in the hair.
Work in diagonal lines, that gradually balance horizontal
What we mean by that is you start in the neck with a small triangular looking section. It’s a diagonal forward, and as you work up the head the sectioning pivots. Check out the hair cutting pictures below... You use a pinch technique to cut in the layers, half opening the scissor and removing the hair from mid length slicing hair away.
Matt uses precision scissors to cut the invisible layers
You want to be neat and precise. With a good pair of sharp scissors. Matt regularly uses these scissors to educate hair cutting techniques and they're a great tool for the kit bag. If you have not had a look already, check them out here. The tools Matt uses you can find on this website.
The cutting technique for invisible layers
The hair is pinch cut. It works well for making layers seamless and invisible. This is because when hair is pinched, the hair that comes from the edges of the section, is over-directed. Meaning when you're cutting the invisible layers, the hair in the middle is shorter and the edges longer. This creates a beautiful diffused invisible layer in the hair. Repeat on the opposite side.
Release the hair in the crown section to fall over the invisible layers
Matt wants his crown section to cascade over the layers. But, you could use the pinch cut invisible layering technique if you like. Matt would like them a little hidden, but he would also like to add a soft layer in the crown, without connecting up the invisible layers. He pulls his layer past that point and cuts in his desired length.
Cut in the baseline of the hair
Cut the baseline to give it a neaten off. It's no good cutting in all those invisible layers for an airy volume and then leaving the ends all thin. Sharpen it off, this stage you will see where you want the hair to fall and where you feel it looks thickest.
Condensed cut the sides and add invisible layers
Matt takes the whole side section and pulls it up. He chooses his cutting length and cuts it in. He then demonstrates how to create invisible layers in this section by taking his precision scissors and removing pieces through the section, slipping away random pieces of hair. He combs the hair up to check if it has spacing, and when he's happy stops cutting. This creates a soft face frame, he then cuts the baseline in the sides, check out the finished look below.